Okinawa - the other Japan
A Japanese boy looks at Heart Rock on the beach of Kouri-jima.
A subtropical natural paradise 1500 kilometers from Tokyo: hundreds of islands, an average temperature of 23 degrees, miles of beaches and ice cream parlors - Okinawa is relaxedly different. Because of its independence as the Kingdom of Ryūkyū (琉球) until 1879, it has retained much of its own identity. Due to the U.S. occupation after 1945, it has an additional strong American flavor. In this article, I'll show you exactly how this is noticeable when you visit the islands and what is so different about Okinawa.
Overview
Uchina-time - Time on Okinawa
A little more indifference here, a little slower there. Immediately after arriving at the airport in the capital Naha, you notice that something is different here: hardly any hustle and bustle, no busy bustle and less stress. If the bus arrives a few minutes later, no one is bothered. The people on Okinawa call this uchina-time (ウチナータイム). The clocks just go a little differently here. I'm not talking about Greek serenity here, but a difference from the rest of Japan can be felt. You won't find rushing people and speeding cars here, but you will find a lot of relaxation.
Unlike Tokyo, the benches are actually used in the capital of Okinawa :) Image: Julie Fader(Unsplash)
This does not mean that people in Okinawa do not try hard and are diligent. The Okinawan saying "Nankurunaisa" means "Do your best and everything will be fine." It also means that here the mistakes of others are easily forgiven. After all, as a tourist in Japan, you do sometimes tiptoe around not breaking the rules. On Okinawa, you rather have the feeling that you can move freely and carefree.
Island paradise
The mangrove forests of Yanbaru have been a national natural asset since 1972.
The serenity of the people on Okinawa comes, of course, partly from the special climate: With mild temperatures all year round and lots of sunshine, you quickly realize that you are in the subtropics. We were there in January and had hot days even in winter, which quickly make northern Germans sweat. Even the water temperature never drops below 21 degrees. When bathing in one of the closed-off areas, one encounters many interesting sea creatures in a wide variety of colors. But be careful: due to cube jellyfish, lionfish, sea snakes, etc., there is a danger to life when swimming outside these areas. As an alternative, a wet suit is recommended, for example, to be able to marvel at the whole variety of the underwater world of Okinawa while snorkeling.
View from Nakijin Castle. In the background the waves breaking on the reef.
The main island is almost completely surrounded by reefs, where the waves break impressively. The turquoise sea rests in many places on white sand beaches. In the interior of the island, in addition to mangrove forests, there are large subtropical rainforests interrupted by waterfalls and rock formations. In the mangrove forests there are a lot of crabs and rare bird species. Here you have the opportunity to get to know nature on a kayak tour without disturbing it. Many animal species found here are unique to Okinawa. These include, for example, the flightless kuina or the native woodpecker. There are even still a small number of manatees, the dugongs, but they are now extremely endangered. The US military is currently relocating a base just off the main island and this is the main factor for the severe endangerment. HERE you can support the action against the relocation of the base with little effort.
American Lifestyle
Nowhere else in Japan is the influence of the Western world as evident as on Okinawa. Americans have left clear footprints on the island and its food culture since World War II. Fast-food chains such as Dunkin' Donuts, A&W and Taco-Bell with large multi-lane drive-thru lines dominate the main streets of the cities. Numerous dishes have emerged from the fusion of American convenience products and local cuisine. The most popular dish: spam sandwich. These are onigiri, or rice and seaweed leaf, with a filling of pressed breakfast meat. Burgers are sometimes available with unusual ingredients such as tuna meat or seaweed. In addition to burgers, shaved ice is also popular. This involves shaving ice from a block of ice and topping it with syrup, fruit or condensed milk. A low-calorie refreshment that originated in Hawaii.
Burger and salad from sea grapes. A bit of the USA and a bit of Okinawa.
Before the belly ache, "Compared to the calories, the serving size of this Shaved Ice is ridiculous."
In general, Okinawa is often reminiscent of Hawaii due to the American influence and its subtropical location. There are some American stations on the radio, which broadcast especially for the many military bases of the USA and their inhabitants. Nevertheless, you don't really meet many Americans in the cities or on the beaches. Their lives seem to take place more in the bases or in the closed-off residential complexes. Meanwhile, according to surveys, over 80% of the Japanese on Okinawa reject the military presence of the Americans. This could be a reason why many of the Americans prefer to keep to themselves.
Public transport vs. car
And there's one more thing that immediately reminds you of the U.S. Compared to the rest of Japan, Okinawa's public transportation is not as seamless. The only rail line is the Urban Monorail in the capital, Naha. Otherwise, buses or cabs are available. The most popular means of transportation, however, is by far the car. Similar to the USA, everything here is designed for driving. Especially in small to medium-sized cities, walking can be an adventure. You walk on the narrowest of sidewalks while cars pass close by.
Awesome part: with this fancy ride we could explore the main island and numerous side islands.
Therefore, a rental car is recommended for the vacation. Especially to visit the more remote sights and islands, a car is very practical and uncomplicated. Another special feature is the speed limit. In 90 % of the cases it is a maximum of 40 km/h. On the one hand, this is nice and relaxing and makes it easier to get used to driving in the left lane. On the other hand, however, you need quite some time even for the shortest distances. Since you're on vacation anyway, you're happy to take this time.
Castles and shrines
The fact that Okinawa was independent for a long time, and therefore also culturally very different, is most noticeable in the castles and shrines of the island. They differ in appearance and structure from the Japanese mainland. Castles with large multi-story wooden buildings, castle tower and defense rings never existed on Okinawa. Ryukyu was strongly influenced by the Chinese for a long time. Accordingly, most official buildings were (and are) red. In addition, limestone was used almost exclusively for construction. Of the 5 major castles that have been recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, unfortunately only ruins remain to be seen. The last surviving castle of Shuri, Naha unfortunately burned down at the end of 2019. However, since the castles were built elevated, the view alone is worth a visit.
An inconspicuous shrine on the small island of Sesoko in the north of Okinawa.
Shrines on Okinawa are often inconspicuous. Simple and mostly built of limestone or concrete, they often attract only a few visitors. Nevertheless, they show the uniqueness of the island culture and its religion. This is a mixture of Chinese religions, Buddhism and Shintoism. Women were considered spirtually superior. Priestesses, called Noro (祝女), had a special role. Nowadays, these priestesses have a function only in small villages. What remains are partly forgotten shrines, which you can discover well on your own on the many islands again and again.
CONCLUSION: The perfect mix
Even this you do not have to do without on Okinawa: the cherry blossom begins here even in January.
Okinawa is not only slightly different from Japan, but has its own culture and history. The beautiful nature and friendly serenity of the people create a relaxed vacation atmosphere. Those who wish can immerse themselves in the islands' rich history, soak up the daily sun on the beach, or discover the wildlife while snorkeling and kayaking. And since Okinawa is part of Japan, it also has many of the pleasant things of the mainland: Always courteous service, Japanese cleanliness, 24/7 stores and Japanese specialties like assembly line sushi or okonomiyaki. For me, the perfect mix.