Overnight stay in a ryokan - how does that work in Japan?
The Arai-Ryokan in Shuzenji. Our large room with winter garden and river view shows we are in a luxury ryokan.
As we have already shown in our blog article about cheap vacation in Japan, there is a relatively cheap and at the same time exciting accommodation option in Japan: traditional inns called ryokan (旅館). Staying in such accommodation is a great way to get to know Japanese food, traditions and people. The choice ranges from small owner-operated ryokan, comparable to German pensions, to luxury domiciles with large SPA area and exclusive service. However, there are a few things to keep in mind that are different from international hotels. From toilet shoes to tatami - we enlighten you in this article about the most important things.
Before the trip - book a ryokan
So you've found this gorgeous ryokan with breakfast included and onsen (hot bath) built in, but you're not sure if you should really take the plunge? The language barrier could be a problem and all the rules unsettle you? Before you book the western hotel with English speaking staff, read on. Because with the information in this article and a little bit of courage, you will definitely have a unique experience in the most traditional way of staying in Japan. Besides, even if you make mistakes or don't understand the language, there are no real problems. Japanese people usually recognize that you are foreigners and will overlook the mistakes you are bound to make. And as far as communication is concerned, this can also be done by pointing and speaking broken English.
Arrival at the ryokan
Even though my friend's name was changed from Drüke to Drake - seeing a plaque like that upon arrival is cool.
Basically, you should stick to the given check-in time. Japanese people don't like to be spontaneous and if you show up a few hours too early or too late, it usually causes confusion. Before entering the ryokan, the first thing to do is to take off your shoes and change into slippers. Usually there is a shelf for your shoes and sandals are available - if you are lucky, even big enough for European feet. Depending on how upscale the ryokan is, you will be greeted by the owner himself or a staff member at the reception. Especially luxurious ryokan have a board at the entrance where the names of the guests arriving that day are written. If you stand in front of such a board, you can be sure that the entire staff will greet you collectively at the entrance. A bit uncomfortable? Yes. But also unforgettable, how 20 smiling Japanese will shower you with polite phrases, while you stand in front of them with your backpack and a surprised expression on your face.
The traditional room in the ryokan
A tokonoma (床の間) is a design element of the room and is not meant for storing luggage.
Here, the parking of luggage is already rather ok.
Before you enter the room, you have to take off your shoes or slippers. The rooms are covered with rice mats, tatami (畳), and may only be entered barefoot or with socks. The rice mats are relatively sensitive and besides, one also sleeps on them. What is also immediately noticeable is that there is no bed. But don't worry. If you open the cupboards, you will notice the beds that are neatly tucked away. You don't have to assemble them yourself. Depending on the category, you'll have either a staff member or even a personal assistant who will not only set up the futon for you, but also serve food in the room. Even if it seems polite to you, please do not try to help set up food or bed. Japanese people generally take their job very seriously and want to do it to your complete satisfaction. Interfering or helping would convey that you do not trust the employee with the tasks.
The finely folded clothing that is ready is a yukata (浴衣). This type of robe can be worn inside the ryokan. It is not meant to be street wear unless you are in an area with many onsen. Then you can put on the yukata when walking between the different bathhouses. When putting it on, make sure that the right side goes under the left side of the yukata. If you do it wrong once and get the amused looks in the whole ryokan, you learn it for life ;)
The plush hand warmers are the icing on the cake.
Another piece of equipment often found in ryokan is the kotatstu (炬燵). It is a table with integrated heating, with a blanket attached to its edges. Most lodgings do not have central heating and so the kotatsu, along with a small air conditioner, is usually the only source of heat in the winter. Stretching one's legs under the table and flipping the switch on the cord definitely has something cozy about it.
The walk to the toilet
A separate paragraph just for going to the toilet? Trust me - this is where most mishaps happen. When you leave the room, you put on your sandals, which were ideally left outside the room. Reaching the toilet, you take off the sandals again and change into the toilet slippers. After business or shower, change from the toilet slippers back into the sandals. This is very important. Going to the room with the toilet slippers and, in the worst case, stepping on the tatami mats with them would be a big faux pas. If you have the luxury of your own toilet in the room, the same rules apply. Here, too, you should only wear your slippers in the toilet.
The catering
The ryokan in the temples of Koyasan serve only vegan food.
Green tea is actually always to be found in the room. Either already prepared in a tea or thermos flask or together with a kettle to brew it yourself. Often it is Hōjicha (ほうじ茶), roasted green tea, or the classic Sencha (煎茶). In addition, most ryokan provide their guests with breakfast and also dinner. Depending on the facilities, food is served in the room or in the dining room. The food usually consists of many small portions of various dishes. Rice is always included. In addition, pickled vegetables, fish, meat, miso soup and much more. Often the food is cooked according to the season and artfully arranged. Taking these special meals in a comfortable yukata and sitting on the tatami is a great experience.
The (shared) bathroom
Bathhouses have a long tradition in Japan.
Most ryokan have at least one communal bath. If it is fed by a natural spring, it is called an onsen (温泉) - otherwise it is called a sento (銭湯). The baths are separated by gender. If you stick to few actually logical rules there is not much to go wrong here. Before one concerns the actual bath one undresses completely. Before diving into the hot water you have to wash yourself from head to toe. Soap or clothes do not belong in the basin with hot water. That's it. We will talk about onsen in details in the next article of this series. But with this information you are already warned against the biggest faux pas.
A little tip about the behavior
Ryokan have a long tradition in Japan. VIele of the buildings are old and most separate their rooms from each other by paper walls. It goes without saying that here, as everywhere in Japan, special consideration is expected. Listening to loud music, heated discussions or partying at night is not recommended. If you are very noisy, prepare yourself for the night with appropriate medical aids.
Conclusion: Everything is not so bad
As you can see, there are certainly some things to keep in mind when staying in a traditional ryokan. However, mutual consideration and common sense will save you from the biggest missteps. And if you do something wrong, it's not so bad. Japanese people are very understanding. And even if it really bothers others. No one will reprimand you publicly anyway. The Japanese are much too polite for that.